La Dolce Vita: Italian Chocolate (Published by Tribune Media Syndicates, 2008) by Francine Segan Chocolate news flash: Italy invades Switzerland. To the long list of yummy delicacies from Italy---pasta, pizza, salami, Parmesan cheese, and extra virgin olive oil---we American's often forget to add chocolate! Yet Italy is home to some of the world's finest chocolate companies like Caffarel, Ferrero, Pernigotti and Venchi. And smaller firms such as Amedei and Domori are winning gold medals in international competitions. In just one region of Italy, Piemonte, there are more master chocolatiers than in Belgium and France combined. In Tuscany there is such a concentration of fine chocolate makers that journalists have dubbed the area between Florence and Pisa Chocolate Valley. Veritable Willy Wonkas, Italy's chocolatiers love thinking up new flavors. "It is an Italian's way to be creative," beams Mariella Maione owner of Peyrano Chocolates, "instead of sleeping, we dream up new taste combinations." Andrea Slitti, of Slitti Chocolates, confides, "I sometimes start with a name that intrigues me, and then find a flavor to match it!" Another imaginative Chocolate Valley chocolaltier, Paul DeBondt, whose creations include dark chocolate accented with wild fennel and white chocolate flecked with bitter almonds and cocoa nibs, admits, "My favorite flavor is the one I have yet to invent." Some larger companies hold special monthly creative team meetings to develop new flavors. "A dozen or so specialists--gourmets and technical experts---spend all day brainstorming new chocolates," said Vincenzo Montuori of Caffarel. One successful result of those meetings is MonViso, the 2007 winner of the most innovative product awarded by Eurochocolate. This coffee, cream, and liqueur bonbon is whimsically shaped like the Alpine mountain peak visible from the Caffarel factory. Milk chocolate gets the short shrift here in the States, where gourmets focus exclusively on dark chocolate. The Italians, who love the richer taste of milk chocolate, have managed to retain the sophistication of dark and all of the decadence of milk chocolate. Slitti, a Tuscany based company, is one of several Italian firms to create a line of milk/dark chocolate hybrids. Instead of the usual 31 to 35% cocoa content found in most milk chocolates, Slitti's LatteNero --"milk-dark"-contain cocoa concentrations as high as 45%, 51%, 62% and 70%. The result is amazingly smooth, with a milk chocolate flavor, but without the excessive sweetness of commercial milk chocolate. One reason Italian chocolate is so good is that Italians care so much about the purity of ingredients. For example, Italy bans genetically modified foods. But there is no better evidence for their concern for quality than the country's long battle with the European Union (EU) over cocoa butter. According to Mario Piccialuti, Director of AIDI (Italy's Confectioners Association), "Since 2003 the EU permits chocolate to certain percentage of vegetable oils, like palm, to substitute for the more expensive cocoa butter. For us Italians this is NOT 'pure chocolate,' but a chocolate-like substance, and should be labeled accordingly." When's the best time to eat chocolate? According to one chocolate maker interviewed, " We Italians eat chocolate when we are happy to celebrate, but we also eat it when we are sad, to cheer us up." He paused, then, eyes twinkling, added, "Italians also eat chocolate before making love, but it is wonderful after making love too!" Eat chocolate like an Italian -1- Savor a square of chocolate after dinner before an espresso. Many Italians even melt the chocolate right in the cup. -2- Try a tiny chocolate spoon. Stir your espresso with the spoon until the tip melts, then nibble the spoon's handle as you drink the resulting luscious mocha brew. -3- Pair dark chocolate with one of Italy's fine spirits like a glass of Tosti's Bracato, of sparkling red wine that is fruity, but not sweet. GIANDUIOTTO - ITALY'S FAVORITE CHOCOLATE CANDY Gianduiotto, Italy's favorite candy flavor, is a creamy blend of chocolate and hazelnuts, and was invented in 1852 out of necessity. Because of the long Napoleonic Wars, transport of cocoa beans across the Atlantic was severely curtailed and Europe began to experience chocolate shortages. To extend their meager supplies of cocoa, the Caffarel company began blending ground hazelnuts into their cocoa. The result was a creamy, flavorful delight, and it became an instant success. Shaped like an upside-down canoe, is named for Gianduja, a traditional carnival character popular in Turin. Gianduiotti wrapped in paper were given out by a masked Gianduja character at the 1865 Carnival in Turin. This is the first time any chocolate candy in the world was paper-wrapped. Gianduiotti are not only popular in Italy. Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier III of Monaco selected them as their official wedding candy. 5 ways to savor Italy -1- Check sites like Chocolitaly.com that list special tastings, events and chocolate shows such as the two-week Turin Chocolate Festival held in early March or Perugia's Eurochocolate in October. -2- Visit one of Italy's chocolate factories like Perugina, makers of Baci. -3- Take a chocolate making class like the fun-filled ones given by Paul De Bondt in Pisa. -4- Be on the look out for chocolates that are hard to find in the States, like Ferraro's Kinder Sorpresa, small chocolate eggs filled with puzzle pieces that assemble into a collectible toy; or their Pocket Coffee, little shots of real espresso coated in bittersweet chocolate. -5- Enjoy a Michelangelo chocolate moment and treat yourself to one of Italy's chocolate sculptures. Italians craft gorgeous objects in chocolate, like antique tools coated with cocoa "rust" or whimsical Easter eggs, which, depending on the intended recipient, are filled with either toys, jewelry or collectibles. One chocolate shop in Pistoia will even put custom items into chocolate Easter eggs. Clients bring the gift--verything from an engagement ring to a cell phone and even a black lace nightie--to the shop, where they wait while it is encased in a chocolate egg. RECIPE - NIB PARMESAN CRISPS These crisps are delicious with a glass of wine or a cocktail before dinner. You can make them with other Italian cheeses that pair well with chocolate nibs, such as Gorgonzola or pecorino. 1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoon chocolate nibs Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, sprinkle the Parmesan in a thin layer in circles about 2 inches in diameter in the skillet. Scatter the nibs over each circle. Cook until light golden brown, about 3 minutes. With a spatula, carefully slide the Parmesan-nib round out of the pan and onto a serving plate. Repeat the process until you've finished all the cheese and nibs. Serves 8. A Sampling of Italian Chocolate Companies Amedei www.amedei-us.com Caffarel www.caffarel.com DeBondt www.debondtchocolate.com Domori www.Domori.com Ferrero www.Ferrero.com Pernigotti www.pernigotti.it Perugina www.perugina.it Peyrano www.peyrano.com Slitti www.Slitti.it Venchi www.venchi.it ©2009 Francine Segan. All rights reserved.