Rice--Italy's Buried Treasure An economical gourmet treat (Published by Tribune Media Syndicates, 2009) by Francine Segan Italian rice is so good that when Thomas Jefferson tasted it in 1787, he smuggled some back to America in his coat pockets, a crime then punishable by death. Jefferson wasn't caught, but Italian rice certainly caught on! Today Italy is Europe's leading rice producer. Most of us associate rice with China, Japan and India, but in fact, Italian rice is some of the world's best. Especially in Italy's northern regions, where it has grown since medieval times, rice is a close second to pasta as Italy's favorite first course choice. It is extremely popular in fine Italian restaurants here in the States, like New York City's famed Felidia, Becco and Del Posto restaurants, as well as in Italy. Italy produces 50 varieties of rice, each suited to a particular dish or cooking method. "Rice is extremely versatile--it can be used in every course from salads and appetizers to soups and first courses, as well as in desserts," notes Lidia Bastianich (lidiasitaly.com), restaurateur, award-winning cookbook author, and host of PBS's Lidia's Italy. "The nuances amongst the varieties are very important to Italian cuisine. Superfino varieties are specifically required in the making of risotto. It readily releases its starches during cooking yet the kernel remains 'al dente', creating a creamy sauce without using cream. I love canaroli rice. However, Arborio also makes great risotto and can be easier to find in supermarkets here," observes Ms. Bastianich. "Risotto is one of those dishes that seems elusive to most home cooks, but it couldn't be easier to make. Just slowly stir it every few minutes; it's almost Zen-like," notes Wes Martin, culinary producer for the Food Network and PBS, who has worked with such chefs as Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart. "In Italy, risotto is usually served as a first course before the main entrée, but since it cooks so quickly-- in just 18 minutes--- it can be a great midweek, main course dish," stresses Chef Renato Piccolotto of Venice's famed Hotel Cipriani. "There are hundreds of ways to vary risotto once you know the basic cooking technique." "Risotto is an extremely economical dish and a great way to use leftovers. The only thing that stays constant is the basic cooking technique. The flavor components can be switched out," advises Mr. Martin who suggests substituting leeks, shallots or scallions for onions and experimenting with different types of stock and cheeses. Italians tend to focus on one ingredient, to concentrate and highlight that single ingredient's taste. Risotto alla Milanese, a dish from Milan, is mainly seasoned with saffron. Risi e bisi, is a Venice classic that relies on the delicate flavor of spring peas. Truffles, porcini mushrooms and sausage are a few of the most commonly featured ingredients, but risotto can be made using virtually any combination of vegetables, legumes, meats, or seafood. "I love to eat risotto according to the seasons," notes Ms. Bastianich "There is nothing more comforting than a risotto of mixed mushrooms in the fall or baby vegetables and fresh herbs as soon as Spring arrives!" In Piedmont, a region known for fine wines like Barolo, Barbaresco and Asti Spumante (DOCG), they even make risotto flavored mainly with wine. One of Piedmont's most impressive risottos is made with a bubbly wine like Asti Spumante or Prosecco. The bottle is placed into the risotto, which causes the wine to overflow into the dish. "It's the one time that you do want the wine to bubble over out of the bottle," laughs Mr. Martin. "It's so festive," he adds, "like crepes Suzette or baked Alaska set on fire, but lots safer. And it's economical. A split of good Italian sparkling wine costs only about $4. Although a classic in Italy, this dish is virtually unknown here. A fun, whimsical, and memorable creation, that your guests will be talking about for weeks." Tips for perfect risotto from Chef Renato Piccolotto of Venice's famed Hotel Cipriani -1- First sauté onions in butter or oil, then add the rice. The rice should be lightly toasted with olive oil or butter before other liquids are added. This removes any moisture in the rice and seals the grains, helping to keep them firm, al dente. Then wine, either red or white, is added then added. All the wine should be absorbed into the rice before any broth is added. -2- The most important point is to use only hot stock. Add only a little at a time. The rice should be stirred every few minutes to release the starch and create a smooth, creamy sauce. -3- Once the rice is halfway cooked, after about 10 minutes, other ingredients, like cooked veggies, fish, and meat can be added. -4- When the rice is cooked through, but still al dente, the final finishing ingredients-cold butter and finely grated cheese-are blended into the mixture. Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano are the most traditional cheeses for risotto, but many other cheeses, like taleggio or gorganzola, are wonderful too. -5- The second most important thing is to serve the risotto on a flat plate, not in a bowl. "Please, never in a bowl!" stresses Chef Piccolotto. "A bowl keeps the rice too close together causing it to continue cooking in its own heat, which will make the risotto too mushy." RECIPE #1 Asti Spumante Risotto Recipe courtesy of Wes Martin Photo: Stephen Murello Serves 6 A fabulously festive dish. Pop the cork and let the fun flow! 5-6 cups homemade or canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped, about 1 cup 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice 2 split bottles (187ml) Asti Spumanti or Prosecco, at room temperature 3/4 cup Pecorino cheese, plus more for serving 1/2 teaspoon sugar Heat the chicken broth until just below a simmer; keep warm. In a large heavy saucepan, melt butter with the olive oil over medium heat; add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until very soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until translucent, 4-5 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, add 1 bottle of sparkling wine and cook, stirring, until liquid is absorbed, 3-4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the hot broth and cook, stirring, until absorbed. Continue adding a broth, a little at a time, until done, but still very firm. Stir in the cheese. Set the remaining bottle of unopened sparkling wine on a wide, shallow serving platter with a high rim and surround with the rice. When ready to serve, hold the bottle in place and remove the cork; the wine should bubble up over the risotto, if not, just drop a pinch of sugar into the bottle to release the wine. Spoon large scoops of warm risotto with champagne onto plates and serve immediately. RECIPE #2 Herb Risotto Adapted from Opera Lover's Cookbook, by Francine Segan Photo: Giuseppe Perrone, www.studio-due.it Serves 6 Aromatic herbs are stirred into the dish after it's cooked for a bright colorful and aromatic risotto. The secret to perfect risotto, with firm grains and creamy texture, is adding hot stock as the rice cooks. Another tip for great tasting risotto is not to add salt until the very end, after the Parmesan cheese, which contains lots of its own salt. 4 to 5 cups chicken stock 1 medium onion, minced 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 pound Arborio rice, about 2 1/4 cups 1/2 cup white wine 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, soft 1 1/2 cups assorted herbs, such as parsley, mint, rosemary, sage, and basil 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese Salt Freshly milled pepper In a small saucepan over medium heat bring the stock to a low boil. In a large skillet sauté the onion in oil over medium heat until the onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the rice, and stirring constantly sauté for about 3 minutes. Add the wine and sauté until absorbed. Add 1/2 cup of the hot stock and stir until the stock is absorbed. Add more stock, a little at a time, until the rice is tender, about 18 minutes. Meanwhile, puree the butter and herbs in a food processor. Remove the rice from the heat, stir in the butter-herb mixture and the Parmesan. Taste, then season with salt and pepper, if needed. Serve immediately in flat plates. RECIPE #3 Chocolate Risotto Recipe Courtesy Wes Martin Photo: Stephen Murello Serves 4 Rice pudding, a classic American dessert, becomes a gourmet treat when you use Arborio rice. A favorite homey dessert gets star treatment. Since the Arborio creates such a naturally creamy sauce, I use low fat milk instead of whole. For variety try hazelnuts, dried cranberries, or cherries instead of the oranges. It's also great with white or milk chocolate and a different spirit, like rum or brandy. 4 cups low-fat milk, plus more as needed 1/2 cup sugar 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3/4 cup Arborio rice 1/4 cup Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1/4 teaspoon finely grated orange zest, plus strips of zest for garnish Pinch coarse salt In a saucepan, stir together the milk and sugar and heat over medium-low heat until hot but not boiling. Keep warm. In a large heavy saucepan or pot, melt butter over medium heat; let it simmer until it begins to brown lightly, about 4 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly, until translucent, about 4 minutes. Carefully add Grand Marnier and cook, stirring, until the alcohol has burned off and the rice has absorbed the liquid, about 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot milk to the rice, increase the heat slightly, and cook, stirring constantly, until rice absorbs the milk. Continue adding the milk, a little at a time. Be sure the rice has absorbed the liquid each time before adding more. After the final milk addition, cook until rice is soft but still holds its shape and is al dente. Stir in the chocolate, fine zest and salt until melted and incorporated. If risotto is too thick, add additional warm milk until desired consistency is reached. Spoon onto plates, garnish with thin orange zest strips and serve immediately. ©2009 Francine Segan. All rights reserved.